Lamb – Bovidiva

There has been considerable publicity devoted to the announcement that the University of Oxford Student Union Council have voted to approve an on-campus beef and lamb ban, citing a desire to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

The greenhouse gas emissions associated with beef production comprise methane, nitrous oxide and carbon dioxide, with methane accounting for ~60-80% of the total, depending on the production system. Ironically, climate researchers at the University of Oxford (who presumably don’t sit on the Student Union Council) have reported that atmospheric methane breaks down over ~20 years, unlike carbon dioxide from fossil fuel combustion (e.g. aviation fuel) which continues to accumulate over time.

I grew up in Oxford and have always loved the diversity added to the city residents by the truly global university community of students, researchers and staff. However, it’s worth thinking about the carbon emissions of all the international flights that are therefore associated with the university (see infographic above).

To put flights into context:

The carbon emissions associated with a return flight to Paris = 4.8 months of beef consumption* per passenger.
The carbon emissions associated with a return flight to JFK = 2.8 years of beef consumption* per passenger.
The carbon emissions associated with a return flight to Sydney = 9.5 years of beef consumption* per passenger.

We should all take strides to reduce our greenhouse gas emissions wherever possible – surely we can only assume that banning air travel will be next on the Student Union Council agenda?

It’s worth noting that this vote doesn’t actually have any legislative power, as each college within the University runs its own catering and therefore makes independent decisions as to food sourcing. Furthermore, a vote by the Student Council is a vote by a very small proportion of students on the council, rather than the 22,000 students across the entire University. It therefore seems unlikely that the ban would be mandated without significant student revolt, but given how many kebab and burger vans line the streets of Oxford after 9pm, I imagine the proprietors are looking forwards to a huge increase in demand if it is ever enforced.

*at an average UK consumption of 18.2 kg beef per capita

Celebrity chefs, farmers markets and media publications continually tell us that we should buy British food. In contrast to the 1990s yuppie ideal of airfreighted Icelandic strawberries in January, local food is the new sexy. Locavores salivate at the mention of village-grown carrots so spindly that they look like an advanced case of rickets and eggs at £6 per half dozen with speckled blue shells that perfectly match their Farrow & Ball kitchen wallpaper.

Yet local food has apparently become such a marketing campaign staple, it’s reached the point where “British” is no longer a description of origin or culture, but simply a brand name. In a string of tweets between Waitrose and a number of not-unreasonably incensed farmers, agricultural industry professionals and consumers, it emerges that selling New Zealand lamb under the label “British lamb with mint and redcurrant” is entirely acceptable, as “British” is simply used to denote the origin of the dish.

To be fair, nobody expects shepherds pie to be made from real shepherds, or toad-in-the-hole to contain tasty morsels of marinated natterjack. However, in an era when we care about how, where and when food is produced; and especially given the recent Tesco “fake farms” debacle, it’s difficult to believe that any marketing department could, with a straight face, announce that “British” is simply a brand name. What’s next? Cans of Special Brew sold under the new “champagne” brand?

A certain level of mistrust already exists between the consumer, retailer and farmer, with many consumers believing that the food industry lacks transparency. Traceability and clear labelling are increasingly important to the food-savvy consumer, yet these types of marketing initiative appear to be yet more attempts to manipulate consumer buying behaviour.

Absolutely no offence is intended to New Zealand sheep farmers who do produce fabulous meat, but when lamb from overseas is prominently labelled “British” (despite the seldom-read small print), consumers may feel misled and lose trust in buying British food. By all means celebrate the rich traditions of British cuisine, but please Waitrose, stop dressing mutton as lamb.